Bathroom Tile Remodeling in Newington, CT

No, and we will not try. The surround comes off, we patch and flatten what is behind it, and the tile goes on a proper surface. We can tile over existing tile sometimes, but a molded plastic tub-shower is a different job and it has to come out.

The tile, the new vanity and the countertop are all exempt from a building permit under the 2022 Connecticut State Building Code, so long as nothing structural changes. If we move a drain, add a valve, or run new wiring, those trades are permitted separately by the plumber or electrician doing them, filed through the Town of Newington Building Department at Town Hall, 200 Garfield Street. We tell you which parts of your scope need a permit before work starts, so nothing stalls mid-job.

Yes, and we prefer to. Tile is the trade everything else waits on, so we sequence the work so nobody is standing around. If you would rather handle the plumbing yourself, that is fine. We will tell you exactly what has to be done and when.

The work carries a 1-year written workmanship warranty. Our HIC number, #0706534, is in the state HIC lookup. Dmtilellc is registered and insured in Connecticut, and we are rated five stars on Google. The estimate is free, and we will tell you straight if your bathroom is not a good fit for what we do.

A standard 5x8 bath with a tub surround, floor and one vanity wall typically runs 6 to 9 working days, including waterproofing cure and flood-test time. If the subfloor needs rebuilding or the tub-shower unit is being replaced, add a day or two. You get a written schedule at the estimate so you know the days we need your bathroom.

We build the pan, then go over it with a bonded waterproofing membrane such as a Schluter-KERDI style sheet or a liquid-applied one where the geometry calls for it. The membrane runs over the pan, up the walls, around the curb, and over every seam, corner and valve penetration, and we hold a twenty-four-hour flood test before any tile goes down. If a drop moves, we find it while it is still inexpensive to fix.

Only sometimes, and only when the old tile passes the checks: solidly bonded everywhere when you tap it, flat, and structurally sound, with enough give at the outlets, counters and doors to absorb the added thickness. When it fails any of those, tiling over it locks the problem in. On a wet area we almost always take it down to the substrate instead.