Floor Tile Installation, New Britain & Across Connecticut

Occasionally, over sound concrete or well-bonded tile with the right prep. Over wood framing we almost always recommend backer board or uncoupling so the floor does not crack with seasonal movement. We measure and tell you the truth either way.

For kitchens, entries, baths and sunrooms, usually yes. It cannot swell, cup or scratch like wood, works over radiant heat, and today's rectified planks with tight grout joints look remarkably close to real oak or walnut.

Light foot traffic is fine after 24 hours; we recommend waiting 72 hours before heavy furniture and appliances. Exact times depend on the mortar and grout we specify for your floor.

Tile is one of the best finishes for radiant heat. It conducts and holds heat beautifully. We install over hydronic and electric mats with flexible mortars rated for thermal cycling.

We build the pan, then go over it with a bonded waterproofing membrane such as a Schluter-KERDI style sheet or a liquid-applied one where the geometry calls for it. The membrane runs over the pan, up the walls, around the curb, and over every seam, corner and valve penetration, and we hold a twenty-four-hour flood test before any tile goes down. If a drop moves, we find it while it is still inexpensive to fix.

Only sometimes, and only when the old tile passes the checks: solidly bonded everywhere when you tap it, flat, and structurally sound, with enough give at the outlets, counters and doors to absorb the added thickness. When it fails any of those, tiling over it locks the problem in. On a wet area we almost always take it down to the substrate instead.