Floor Tile Installation in Middletown, CT

Yes. We follow the association's contractor rules, protect the hallways and elevator, keep debris sealed, and install a sound-rated underlayment where the bylaws require it. On gypsum toppings we use a primer and membrane rated for that base; on slabs, a moisture test and an uncoupling membrane.

Yes. We check the joists for notching and rot, add a plywood layer over the boards, and flatten the surface with a self-leveling underlayment so the tile lies in one plane. We do not try to bring the whole floor to true level, because that adds too much height at the doors. We make it flat.

Wood-look or stone-look porcelain planks or 12×24 tiles in a mid-tone with a matching grout, set on an uncoupling membrane. Porcelain does not stain or scratch easily, and if a tile is ever damaged a single piece can be replaced. Keep a box of attic stock from the same lot.

No. Tiling not involving structural changes or alterations is exempt under the state code, and the city's Building Division posts its own exempt-work list. Reinforcing joists would be structural work; we advise on filing with the Building Division at 245 deKoven Drive before it is done.

We build the pan, then go over it with a bonded waterproofing membrane such as a Schluter-KERDI style sheet or a liquid-applied one where the geometry calls for it. The membrane runs over the pan, up the walls, around the curb, and over every seam, corner and valve penetration, and we hold a twenty-four-hour flood test before any tile goes down. If a drop moves, we find it while it is still inexpensive to fix.

Only sometimes, and only when the old tile passes the checks: solidly bonded everywhere when you tap it, flat, and structurally sound, with enough give at the outlets, counters and doors to absorb the added thickness. When it fails any of those, tiling over it locks the problem in. On a wet area we almost always take it down to the substrate instead.